Re: [Leica] anti war in amsterdam

[Charles Hehl <chehl@comcast.net>]

Mark,

Although not perfect, Tri-X @1600 developed in Xtol does a reasonable job.
Examples: http://www.leica-gallery.net/hehl/folder-3928.html

Regards,
Charles Hehl
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Rabiner" <mark@rabinergroup.com>
To: <leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us>
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Leica] anti war in amsterdam


> animal wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Simon,
> > >
> > > Good work there.  Taken as a whole you have really shown what went on.
> > >
> > > I think TMZ may be a little overkill for a daylight scene.  Some of
the
> > > grain comes through even on the web.
> > >
> > > Mike D
> > >
> > Well i really wanted to try hyperfocusing at f8 and thought i needed
1/250
> > at least for most scenes so that left me little choice with the dark
day.
> > Also most pics are cropped a lot and in order to make out a pretty face
here
> > and there i unsharpened a lot and that brings out the grain.
> > Thanks for your comments.
> > simon
> > p.s according Kodak literature the film should give better results then
a
> > 400 pushed twice.do you disagree with that?
> >
> If you can push a 400 film to 1600 and still get good shadow detail AND
> get good grain then I'd like to see it!!
> TMX is designed to be 1600 and IS in most developers, 3200 in the Kodak
> proprietary developer I think its called T-Max developer. The grain I've
> experinced from that developer is clumpy and uneven and mushy. Not fine
> but not really coarse either. But clumpy and uneven. See there is fine
> grain and not fine grain and there is also what the grain looks like. Is
> it regular? Clumpy chunky? Smooth and creamy? Does it look like sharp
> wet sand or mushy mushrooms? I go for the sharp sand like look. No
clumpyness.
>
> Also pray might I suggest Neopan 1600 which IS ASA 1600  ("ASA" is a
> 16th century term, what is it now Din? Dim? IS0!) and cost quite a bit
> less than T-Max P3200 in most places.
> If it cost more I'd get it. Comes in a green box. Fuji.
>
> Also if shooting 1600 in sunlight if you shot it at f16 and 1000th of a
> second in the sunlit street then you've over exposed it one stop. Your
> lens has to stop down to F22 or your camera has to have a shutter which
> goes to f22.
> Or do what i do which is put a B+W 060 yellow-green filter on it with
> improves the panchromatic ness of the film. Cuts thought Haze makes
> people look better and lightens foliage. All of those things you want.
>
> And finally i'll mention Delta 3200 is real 1200 not 1600 like we'd
> expect from Ilford if not 3200 and from my tests and for all the money i
> find that a rip off.
> I'll sometimes use it in my Rolleiflex TLR as it's the only high speed
> medium formant film in town.
>
>
>
> Mark Rabiner
> Portland, Oregon USA
> Photography
>
> Website: http://www.rabinergroup.com
> Email: mark@rabinergroup.com
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